Seoul, South Korea

Introduction

I'm from Daegu, so I'm also a visitor to Seoul in many ways. This guide reflects my experiences and what I've picked up over the years, though Seoul keeps changing and surprising even me. If you're from outside Korea, you might be amused to know that Koreans from other cities have complicated feelings about the capital—it's home but also not quite home.

Seoul is big: 10 million people, or 25 million if you count the metro area. The Han River splits the city into Gangnam (south) and Gangbuk (north). Gangnam is newer, flashier, more corporate. Gangbuk has the palaces, the government, and most of the historical weight.

Getting around is easy. The subway goes everywhere and runs until midnight. Seoul National University is in Gwanak, Korea University in Anam, Yonsei in Sinchon—in case you're visiting academics.

A Few Tips

Some practical things that might catch you off guard.

• Seoul never really sleeps, especially in entertainment districts.
• Subways and buses are excellent but stop around midnight.
• Street food and transport are cheap. Nice restaurants and luxury goods cost the same as anywhere else.
• Don't tip. Seriously. It confuses people. Cards work almost everywhere except traditional markets.
• Age matters here more than you might expect. If you're with Korean colleagues, watch for cues on who pours drinks and who sits where.

Navigation & Transport

• Use Naver Maps or Kakao Maps. Google Maps doesn't work well here due to government mapping restrictions.
• Get a T-money card at any convenience store (₩4,000 deposit). Works on subways and buses.
• Subway runs 5:30AM to midnight.
• Taxis are cheap and honest. Kakao T is the local Uber; actual Uber works too but won't take Apple Pay.

Money & Payments

• Cards work everywhere, even tiny restaurants.
• Traditional markets sometimes want cash.
• No tipping. Not optional—just don't do it.

Restaurant Etiquette

• Water and banchan (side dishes) are free. Ask for refills.
• Popular places often don't take reservations. Show up and wait.
• At BBQ restaurants, the staff usually handles the grill for you.
• Never pour your own drink. Pour for others; they'll pour for you.
• Dining with Korean colleagues? Follow whoever's oldest.

Language

• English is hit or miss. Better in tourist areas, sparse elsewhere.
• Write down any dietary restrictions in Korean. Phone translators work in a pinch.
• Picture menus are common. Point and smile.

To Explore

North of the river: palaces, government, old Seoul. South of the river: money, malls, K-pop agencies. Jongno is where the history is. Gangnam is where the business is. Hongdae is where the kids are. Yeouido is where the bankers are. The subway connects all of it.

Adjacent districts within walkable distances

Historic Seoul

• Gyeongbokgung Palace (경복궁): The main Joseon palace, built 1395. Changing of the guard is worth seeing. Go early—it gets crowded. 종로 Jongno
• Changdeokgung Palace (창덕궁): UNESCO site with a "Secret Garden" that lives up to its name. Smaller and more refined than Gyeongbokgung. Book the garden tour ahead of time. 종로 Jongno
• Bukchon Hanok Village (북촌한옥마을): Traditional houses wedged between the two palaces. The elevated spots near Gahoe-dong have good views. These are actual homes, so be respectful. 종로 Jongno
• Jogyesa Temple (조계사): Korean Buddhism headquarters. The lantern festival around Buddha's birthday is spectacular. They run temple stays if you're into that. 종로 Jongno
• Deoksugung Palace (덕수궁): Smaller palace with an odd mix of Korean and Western buildings. The stone-wall path outside is a popular date spot. Looks great at night. 중구 Jung-gu
• Unhyeongung Palace (운현궁): Where Emperor Gojong grew up. Quiet, no crowds. 종로 Jongno
• Namsangol Hanok Village (남산골한옥마을): Five restored houses at the foot of Namsan. Good for craft workshops. 중구 Jung-gu
• Seodaemun Prison History Hall (서대문형무소역사관): Former colonial-era prison, now a museum. Important for understanding the independence movement. 서대문 Seodaemun
• Bongeunsa Temple (봉은사): Old temple directly across from COEX. The juxtaposition is surreal. 강남 Gangnam

Modern Seoul

• Dongdaemun Design Plaza (동대문디자인플라자): Zaha Hadid building. The LED rose garden at night is worth seeing. 동대문 Dongdaemun
• Lotte World Tower (롯데월드타워): 123 floors, tallest in Korea. The glass floor at the top is genuinely unnerving. Book a sunset slot. 잠실 Jamsil
• Starfield COEX Mall (스타필드 코엑스몰): Huge underground mall. The library in the middle has become an Instagram cliché for good reason. 삼성 Samseong
• Yeouido (여의도): Finance district. Most of Korea's banks and broadcasters are here. Cherry blossom season is mobbed but beautiful. 여의도 Yeouido
• Common Ground (커먼그라운드): Shopping mall made of shipping containers. College kids love it. 건대 Konkuk
• Gangnam Station Area (강남역): The center of new Seoul. Endless restaurants and shops underground and above. 강남 Gangnam
• Seoul Sky (서울스카이): Observation deck at Lotte World Tower. Highest viewpoint in the country. 잠실 Jamsil
• Times Square (타임스퀘어): Big mall in Yeongdeungpo. Less touristy than COEX. 영등포 Yeongdeungpo
• Sevit Island (세빛섬): Three glowing artificial islands on the Han River. Pretty at night. 반포 Banpo
• Lotte World (롯데월드): Indoor/outdoor theme park. Rides, ice skating, aquarium. Connected to the tower. 잠실 Jamsil
• Olympic Park (올림픽공원): Left over from 1988. Now mostly used for K-pop concerts. Nice for walks. 송파 Songpa

Cultural Experiences

• National Museum of Korea (국립중앙박물관): Huge collection, free entry, closed Mondays. Give it half a day at least. 용산 Yongsan
• Leeum Museum (리움미술관): Samsung's art museum. Traditional and contemporary, beautifully curated. The building itself is worth the trip. 한남 Hannam
• Gwangjang Market (광장시장): Korea's oldest market. Get the bindaetteok (mung bean pancakes). Go at lunch when it's busy. 종로 Jongno
• Insadong (인사동): Touristy but still good for souvenirs and traditional tea houses. Sundays are pedestrian-only. 종로 Jongno
• National Folk Museum (국립민속박물관): Inside Gyeongbokgung. Good if you want to understand how ordinary Koreans lived. 종로 Jongno
• War Memorial of Korea (전쟁기념관): Covers the Korean War in detail. Free. The outdoor tanks and planes are impressive. 용산 Yongsan
• Seoul Museum of History (서울역사박물관): How Seoul became Seoul. Useful context. 종로 Jongno
• Dongdaemun Market (동대문시장): 24-hour fashion and textile district. Wholesale energy, especially late at night. 동대문 Dongdaemun
• Namdaemun Market (남대문시장): Old, sprawling, sells everything. The galchi-jorim (braised cutlassfish) alley is a local favorite. 중구 Jung-gu
• Bukchon Cultural Center (북촌문화센터): Hands-on traditional craft activities. 종로 Jongno

K-Culture & Entertainment

• SM COEX Artium (에스엠코엑스아티움): SM Entertainment's exhibition space. Hologram concerts, interactive exhibits, merchandise. 삼성 Samseong
• Hybe Insight (하이브 인사이트): BTS's label runs this museum. Interactive music stuff, production exhibits. 용산 Yongsan
• K-Star Road (케이스타로드): Gangnam street with K-pop agency buildings and bear statues for different groups. 강남 Gangnam
• MBC World (MBC월드): Broadcasting theme park. VR experiences, K-drama sets. 상암 Sangam
• Hongdae (홍대): Youth culture capital, around Hongik University (art school). Street performers, K-pop dance busking, indie music venues. The playground area gets lively at night. 홍대/신촌 Hongdae
• Sinchon (신촌): College town for Yonsei, Ewha, and Sogang students. Cheaper food, PC bangs, late-night study cafes. Less chaotic than Hongdae next door. Ewha's campus is worth a walk. 홍대/신촌 Hongdae
• Yeonnam-dong (연남동): Residential pocket next to Hongdae. Trendy cafes, brunch places, and the Gyeongui Line Forest Park—an old railway turned into a walking path. 홍대/신촌 Hongdae

Nature and City Views

• Namsan Seoul Tower (남산서울타워): The iconic tower. Good views, love locks, cable car up. 남산 Namsan
• Seoul Forest (서울숲): Big park, deer enclosure. Nice in spring and fall. 성수 Seongsu
• Han River Parks (한강공원):
  • Yeouido Hangang Park (여의도한강공원): Most popular. Rent a mat, order fried chicken, watch the river. 여의도 Yeouido
  • Banpo Hangang Park (반포한강공원): Rainbow fountain on the bridge at night. 반포 Banpo
  • Ttukseom Hangang Park (뚝섬한강공원): Water sports, younger crowd. 성수 Seongsu
• Bukhansan National Park (북한산국립공원): Real hiking within city limits. Granite peaks. Spectacular views when you earn them. 북한산 Bukhansan
• Cheonggyecheon Stream (청계천): Restored stream through downtown. 11km walking path. Art installations. Better at night. 종로 Jongno

Trendy Neighborhoods

• Seongsu-dong (성수동): People call it "Brooklyn of Seoul." Warehouses turned into cafes and boutiques. 성수 Seongsu
• Euljiro (을지로): Hidden bars inside old printing shops, industrial cafes mixed with traditional hardware stores. Very of-the-moment. 을지로 Euljiro
• Garosu-gil (가로수길): Tree-lined street with boutiques, cafes, and beauty shops. Good for people-watching. 신사 Sinsa
• Itaewon (이태원): Most international neighborhood. Good for food you can't find elsewhere, craft beer, vintage clothes. Gyeongnidan-gil nearby is trendier and quieter. 이태원 Itaewon
• Myeongdong (명동): K-beauty headquarters. Cosmetics stores everywhere, street food, department stores. Extremely crowded but necessary if you want skincare. 명동 Myeongdong

To Eat

Korean meals come with banchan—side dishes that you can refill for free. Most restaurants focus on one thing. Short menus usually mean they're serious about what they make.

Recommendations for Vegetarians

Being vegetarian in Korea is tricky. Meat is everywhere, and even vegetable dishes often have fish sauce or anchovy stock hiding in them. That said, Buddhist temple food (사찰음식) is genuinely excellent and completely plant-based—no garlic or onions either, following monastic tradition. The flavors come from fermentation and careful technique.

Temple restaurants are your best bet for a real meal. The modern vegan scene is growing but still thin outside certain neighborhoods. Mountain vegetables, mushrooms, and creative tofu dishes are the backbone of Korean vegetarian cooking.

Helpful resource: veganseoul.com

Pork

Samgyeopsal (삼겹살, grilled pork belly) is the national obsession. The best version uses Jeju Black Pork—better marbling, cleaner taste. But honestly, most samgyeopsal spots are good.

Beyond the grill: jokbal (족발) is braised pig's feet, rich and gelatinous, best with soju. Bossam (보쌈) is boiled pork wrapped in lettuce with kimchi. Dwaeji-gukbap (돼지국밥) is pork soup with rice, a Busan specialty that's also big in Seoul. Jeyuk-bokkeum (제육볶음) is spicy stir-fried pork, a reliable lunch.

Beef

Hanwoo (한우) is Korean beef, and it rivals wagyu. The grading goes up to 1++. Expensive, but the marbling is serious. Koreans usually just do salt and sesame oil to let the meat speak.

Also try yukhoe (육회), raw beef tartare with sesame oil and egg yolk. Gomtang (곰탕) is milky beef bone soup, subtle but deeply satisfying.

Chicken

Two traditions: old and new. Samgyetang (삼계탕) is a whole young chicken stuffed with ginseng, rice, and medicinal herbs—traditional health food. Korean fried chicken is the opposite: modern, crispy, double-fried, usually eaten with beer (chimaek, 치맥).

Dakgalbi (닭갈비) is spicy stir-fried chicken with vegetables and rice cakes. Originally from Chuncheon, now everywhere in Seoul.

Seafood

Korea's a peninsula, so seafood is serious. Hwe (회) is raw fish, served with ssamjang and lettuce for wrapping. Haemultang (해물탕) is a spicy seafood stew. Jeotgal (젓갈) is fermented seafood—an acquired taste that grows on you.

Live octopus (산낙지) is still moving when you eat it. Not for everyone. Korean restaurants are obsessive about freshness—many keep live tanks, and Noryangjin market runs 24/7.

Specific Dish Recommendations

Rice Dishes (밥류)

• Bibimbap (비빔밥): Mixed rice bowl topped with vegetables, egg, meat, and gochujang. Each ingredient arranged separately before mixing. The dolsot (stone pot) version creates crispy rice.
• Kimchi Bokkeumbap (김치볶음밥): Stir-fried rice with aged kimchi, typically includes pork or spam. Perfect balance of spicy and savory.

Soups & Stews (국/찌개)

• Kimchi Jjigae (김치찌개): Spicy stew made with aged kimchi and pork. Deep, complex flavors from fermented kimchi.
• Seolleongtang (설렁탕): Milky beef bone soup simmered for hours. Served with rice, green onions, and salt on the side to season to taste.
• Sundubu Jjigae (순두부찌개): Soft tofu stew with seafood or meat in spicy broth. Often served bubbling hot with raw egg.
• Samgyetang (삼계탕): Whole young chicken stuffed with ginseng, rice, and medicinal herbs. Traditional summer health food.

Noodles (면류)

• Naengmyeon (냉면): Cold buckwheat noodles in beef broth (mul-naengmyeon) or spicy sauce (bibim-naengmyeon). Topped with sliced pear, cucumber, and egg.
• Japchae (잡채): Sweet potato noodles stir-fried with vegetables and meat. Common holiday dish.
• Kalguksu (칼국수): Hand-cut wheat noodles in rich chicken or seafood broth. Often served with dumplings.
• Jjajangmyeon (짜장면): Korean-Chinese black bean noodles. Sweet and savory sauce made from chunjang (black bean paste). A delivery and jajangmyeon-jip staple.

BBQ & Grilled Dishes (구이)

• Samgyeopsal (삼겹살): Grilled pork belly, usually unseasoned. Eaten with lettuce wraps, garlic, and sauces.
• Galbi (갈비): Marinated beef short ribs. Sweet and savory marinade with soy sauce, garlic, and fruit.
• Bulgogi (불고기): Thinly sliced marinated beef, traditionally grilled but also served as soup or hot pot.

Street Food (길거리 음식)

• Tteokbokki (떡볶이): Spicy rice cakes in gochujang sauce. Sometimes includes fish cakes and boiled eggs.
• Hotteok (호떡): Sweet pancakes filled with brown sugar, nuts, and cinnamon.
• Bungeoppang (붕어빵): Fish-shaped pastry filled with sweet red bean paste.
• Gimbap (김밥): Korean-style sushi rolls with vegetables and meat.
• Sundae (순대): Korean blood sausage stuffed with glass noodles and barley. Often served with tteokbokki or in soup (sundae-guk).
• Mandu (만두): Korean dumplings, steamed (jjin-mandu), fried (gun-mandu), or in soup (mandu-guk). Fillings vary from pork to kimchi.
• Gyeran-ppang (계란빵): Egg bread, a warm street snack with a whole egg baked into sweet bread.

Drinking Food (안주)

• Korean Fried Chicken (치킨): Double-fried for extra crispiness, various sauces available.
• Pajeon (파전): Savory pancake with green onions, seafood, or kimchi. Haemul-pajeon (seafood pancake) is especially popular.
• Budae Jjigae (부대찌개): "Army stew" featuring American military base ingredients like spam and hot dogs, mixed with Korean ingredients.
• Jokbal (족발): Braised pig's feet, sliced thin and served with salted shrimp sauce. Classic late-night drinking food.
• Tangsuyuk (탕수육): Korean-Chinese sweet and sour pork. Crispy battered pork with tangy sauce, served with jjajangmyeon.

Drinks

Drinking is social here. Never pour your own drink. Receive with two hands when someone older pours for you. "One shot" (원샷) means what you think it means.

Alcoholic Beverages (술)

• Soju (소주): The national drink. Clear, 16-20% ABV, originally rice-based. Jinro and Chamisul are everywhere. Craft versions exist if you look for them.
• Makgeolli (막걸리): Milky rice wine, slightly fizzy, slightly sweet. Served in brass bowls. The tradition is to drink it with pajeon when it rains.
• Maekju (맥주): Beer. Cass and Hite are the big brands (both unremarkable). Craft beer is better—try Itaewon or Gyeongnidan.
• Somaek (소맥): Soju mixed with beer. Everyone has their preferred ratio. Roughly 3:7 is common.
• Cheongju (청주): Clear rice wine, more refined than makgeolli. Similar to sake but its own thing.

Non-Alcoholic Drinks (음료)

• Sikhye (식혜): Sweet rice punch. Served after meals or at jjimjilbangs. Refreshing, with little rice grains floating in it.
• Sujeonggwa (수정과): Cinnamon and dried persimmon punch. Deep amber, warming spices, served cold.
• Yuja-cha (유자차): Citron tea. Koreans drink it when they have colds.
• Bori-cha (보리차): Roasted barley tea. Often the default "water" at restaurants. Slightly nutty taste.
• Banana Milk (바나나맛 우유): The squat yellow bottle you see everywhere. Convenience store staple since 1974. Tastes exactly like it sounds.

Cafe Culture

Korea has more cafes per capita than almost anywhere. Independent spots with weird concepts (animal cafes, study cafes where you pay by the hour) are everywhere. If you want something quieter, traditional tea houses (찻집) in Insadong serve green tea, omija tea, and other Korean teas in a calmer setting.